Researching, picking, and purchasing your first serious timepiece can be a daunting task. The whirlwind of terms, brands, and boutique options is often dizzying. The right timepiece can elevate your fitness, be used to celebrate a milestone, become part of your legacy, or be a solid investment.

The thing is, not all watches are made equal. Some watches are worth their price, others not so much. but if you don’t choose wisely you’re going to lose your shirt.

Though picking a timepiece is subjective, there are a few general rules of thumb to keep in mind when purchasing a watch, no matter your budget. If you want to know the basic components of a luxury watch, click here. Now, let’s move to the most important part of selecting a luxury watch.

The best watches look like

What makes a great watch? The answer is not as complicated as you may think. Across the board, there are specific characteristics that you need to pay attention to when selecting a timepiece. But at its core, there’s only one question you should keep in mind — how much time, effort, and money has gone into producing the watch? If you are looking at a watch and feel as if you could buy the case, movement, and strap from a sketchy third party, you’re going to have a bad time.

Defining what makes a great watch will help you better understand if the watch will last for years to come or if the watch will retain its value. Here are some things to know.

What materials were used to make the watch?

First, pay attention to the watch’s material. From high-end heritage companies to consumer brands, most quality watches use 316L stainless steel in their case. Watchmakers on the higher end of the spectrum may also use precious metals and even ceramic — materials that take a high level of craftsmanship to mold and shape. Watches made from cheap alloys and plastics won’t hold up for long. As for the crystal of your watch, most quality brands use sapphire glass because of its scratch resistance. Watches using mineral crystal, plexiglass, and plastic are not worth your time.

How was your watch finished?

Next, pay attention to the finish on the case of the watch — it is what gives a watch’s surface its attractive appearance, contributing to a watch’s shine, texture, and polish. Brands like Romain Gauthier are legendary for their reflective case finishes, commonly using multiple finishing techniques on their watches. The sharper the brushing and more transitions between different types of finishings on the case, generally the more time has gone into making the watch. Low-quality watches tend to use more generic case shapes, brushing, or polishing throughout their entirety.

Does your watchmaker care about the details?

Get up close and personal with the watch. Look at the watch’s dial, hands, and hour markers. Watches like the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time have an eye-catching sunray dial that reflects light in every direction. The hands and hour markers on this timepiece are of excellent quality and look stunning under a macro lens. Poor watchmakers usually cut corners, ignoring the minute details of the watches, commonly featuring misaligned hour markers or text and even dirt under the crystal.